Thursday, November 12, 2009
On a rainy morning in Paris I walked from a friend's house on Boulevard St. Germain to Gare du Nord to catch my train to Switzerland. I was headed to Vevey, on Lake Geneva, in the Lavaux wine region. M.F.K. Fisher and her second husband, Dillwyn Parrish, owned a small plot of land just north of Vevey. They lived there together for only a year, but it was a very happy time in her life.
The geography of this area is amazing. The vineyards literally seem to grow out of the waters of Lake Geneva. Add in the sunshine and the fall colors and it was a spectacular day. I hiked for hours -- all the vineyards have well built paths and visitors are encouraged to wander.
Late in the afternoon I used my sleuthing skills to locate (I think) the site of M.F.K. Fisher's Swiss home. I must be a true English Major nerd because this was a very exciting part of the trip.
Afterwards, I hiked back to Vevey, stopping occasionally to pick some pinot grapes right from the vine. After my light lunch of bread, cheese, and chasselas white wine grapes I was quite hungry.
That evening I ate a huge meal of salad, frites, and fried perch with lots of fresh lemon squeezed on top. Delicious, and much better than the 'speciality of the house:' horse tartar. Thankfully, if there is one word I know in French, it is cheval...